Asbury Park

Things being various

As seen in Aberystwyth this summer. Having just discussed the tawdry splendour of Asbury Park, it seemed appropriate to mention Aber. Aber is, of course, much grander than AP, being a strange mingling of seaside resort and university town. But the first time I visited and strolled along the front, it was oddly familiar, comforting even. I knew where I’d washed up; I could face west and scan the Atlantic for signs of home.

There’s something comforting too about knowing you can get chips with just about anything; the heady scent of salt and vinegar that fills the air (and mixes with the salt of the sea), unlike the sickly sugar-spun cotton candy and toffee popcorn atmosphere of the Jersey shore.

Thinking about the various permutations of chip suppers available in this picture also reminds me of a lecture given by the architectural critic Jonathan Glancey on ‘found poems’ in London, illustrated with slides showing blackboards outside cafes offering similar permutations (adding tomato, bacon, fried bread, black pudding, etc. to the equation), but also the destination boards on the fronts of buses, City street names like Threadneedle and Cheapside and Puddling Lane.

I’ve managed to move from the Jersey shore to the Welsh coast to the centre of London in just a few short sentences! These places are linked for me by my movements through them, and away from them (as Bachelard says, 'our past is situated elsewhere’). I carry little snippets of these places with me, my mental scrapbook, and I spread them before me when I think of ideas for poems. There are endless permutations …

The pleasure of ruins

Someone came up to me after a reading once and said you’re obsessed with abandoned buildings. Until then, I’d never thought about the disturbing number of poems set in ruined or desolate structures, but once it had been pointed out, I decided to explore the reasons. I don’t know how common this is, but I have a recurring dream of returning to my childhood home, in the dream in ruins, although I know the layout of the rooms intimately, as if the map of the house is ingrained in my feet. Gaston Bachelard writes about ‘the land of Motionless Childhood’, contained in the house we grew up in, which is 'physically inscribed in us … each one of its nooks and corners a resting-place for daydreaming.’ I suppose I didn’t start having the dream until I was well into being an adult, until the house was long-closed to me. The house is still standing, but much altered, and I suppose I wouldn’t really like to go back. As Bachelard says, 'the first, the oneirically definitive house, must retain its shadows’. And besides, the house stands in another country far away, a country I hardly visit these days, a country I haven’t lived in for over twenty years. A country which is foreign to me. So the fact the house is a ruin in my dream may have to do with the old cliché of 'burning bridges’, the brutally true statement of Thomas Wolfe’s: you can’t go home again. But Bachelard says you can, through dream and memory, the way we carry aspects and angles, scents and shapes with us always (for Bachelard, it’s a deep cupboard which retains 'the odour of raisins drying on a wicker tray’). Also, there is no denying that the poet has hit middle age, with all its threats and petty gripes; if the circus animals haven’t deserted me yet, sometimes they seem to be just visible through the haze, bobbing up and down on the merry-go-round in Asbury Park that I used to ride on as a child.

Asbury Park was already crumbling when I was little, once a thriving seaside resort which eventually fell out of favour and was left to decay. Although it was in no way romantic or imposing, like Wordsworth’s Tintern Abbey, I loved the air of somewhere forgotten, somewhere that was hard to love. That may be why I like Bernd and Hilla Becher’s photographs of ancient storage silos and water towers (as a child, I was also obsessed by water towers, the old-fashioned wooden ones you used to find near barns or atop buildings, the kind that Rachel Whiteread recently immortalised in New York), always in black and white, suggesting an industry which had been superseded. Asbury Park was always a sad place, even when the sun was shining. And that sadness was extremely attractive.

I’ll return to this subject, obsession that it is for me, very soon … in the meantime, links to sites which feature the work of the photographer Camilo José Vergara, whose book American Ruins is one of my favourites:

http://www.slate.com/id/2241211/

http://invinciblecities.camden.rutgers.edu/intro.html

photo credit of 'Tillie’, on the side of Palace Amusements in Asbury Park:       Andrew Mills/ The Star-Ledger